Determining the Association Between Traditional and Functional Tests to Predict Rock Climbing Ability: A Pilot Study

Brandi Miller, Taylor Pelton, Bridget Stewart, Nelson Baker / bmiller8@bellarmine.edu / Faculty Advisor: Norman Ayotte

The purpose was to determine the relationship between rock climber skill level and sport specific physical performance tests. Furthermore, to determine the correlation between a novel assessment test, the Climber’s Reach Assessment Tool (CRAT) versus the unilateral power slap test (PST), arm jump test (AJT), and Upper Quadrant Y Balance test (UQYBT). Twenty climbers (16 male) participated in the study, average age 26 ± 6.7. Participants self-reported their bouldering skill level on a scale of V2-V8+. The CRAT was designed to assess upper extremity reach while maintaining three points of contact on a vertical wall. The relationship between the CRAT and UQYBT, the Arm Jump test and Power Slap test were assessed, along with their relationships to the climber’s skill level.

Statistically significant associations were found between the AJT, PST and CRAT but not with the UQYBT. Statistically significant associations were also seen between skill level and all performance tests except the UQYBT. A strong association was found between the AJT and skill level and also the PST and skill level. A strong association was found between the CRAT and skill level. The PST and AJT had a strong association with the CRAT. The AJT also had a very strong association with the UPS. There was not a statistically significant association between the UQYBT and skill level. There was not a statistically significant association between the UQYBT and the CRAT. In conclusion, sport specific performance measures occurring in a vertical plane demonstrate moderate to strong correlation with climber skill level. However, performance measures that occur in a horizontal plane do not correlate with skill level. The CRAT demonstrates moderate to strong correlation to skill level and measures of upper extremity power while assessing grip strength and core and shoulder stability.